Exploring the Bohri Neighborhood: Savoring Timeless Tastes in Mumbai's Culinary Landscape

In the vibrant heart of Mumbai, lies a cultural gem known as Bohri Mohalla, home to the Dawoodi Bohra community. This historic neighbourhood, often referred to as Bhendi Bazaar, is a bustling hub of mosques, shops, and famous food stalls serving delicacies that range from kebabs to nalli nihari, and malpua.

Our recent exploration, led by Team Express, took us on a fascinating food walk, starting from Two Tanki, a historic neighbourhood in Bhendi Bazaar. The journey began at Nawab Seekh Corner, a landmark establishment that has been serving seekh kebabs since 1957.

As we ventured deeper into Bohri Mohalla, we discovered the century-old Taj Ice Cream, established in 1887. Known for its hand-churned fruit ice creams, Taj Ice Cream is a cultural landmark that links the past and present of Mumbai.

Another stop on our food walk was Tawakkal Sweets, a landmark sweet shop that is a must-visit during any exploration of Bohri Mohalla. The shop is renowned for its traditional sweets, particularly the Patrel Biryani, a rice-less biryani made with steamed patra leaves and spiced meat, which is the signature dish of the Dawoodi Bohra community.

Patrel Biryani was invented to adapt the traditional biryani to communal cooking and festive occasions, allowing rich flavours and tender meat to develop without using rice. This innovative adaptation is a testament to the community's culinary creativity and adaptability.

The Dawoodi Bohra community, with roots in Yemeni traders, is known for its literacy, discipline, and loyalty to the Syedna. The Syedna revered by the community is Syedna Mohammed Burhanuddin.

Our food walk also took us to Surti Barah Handi, a restaurant known for its slow-cooked meat from twelve parts of the animal, prepared overnight in twelve vessels with secret spices. The slow-cooking process results in a unique flavour that is a delight to the taste buds.

Bohri Mohalla is not just a collection of old shops; it preserves oral history and offers continuity in a city where skylines, malls, and startups change overnight. Neglect of these old shops risks turning them into museum pieces. Efforts like heritage storytelling, food walks, and documentation are crucial to ensuring that future generations understand and value these spaces.

Celebrations in Bohri Mohalla are a spectacle to behold. Eid-e-Milad is celebrated with colorful processions, prayers, songs, and sweets. On 5 September 2025, India celebrated Onam and Eid-e-Milad on the same day, making for a unique and vibrant festive atmosphere.

However, with Ganesh Visarjan on 6 September, Mumbai rescheduled the Eid procession to 8 September. Despite the change, the spirit of the celebration remained undeterred.

Imam Sharbatwala, a humble juice and sharbat stall known for its watermelon sharbat, has existed since 1925. This stall, like many others in Bohri Mohalla, represents trust, patience, and tradition, which are radical qualities in a world obsessed with speed and disruption.

By telling the stories of these old shops in Bohri Mohalla, we ensure that their legacy endures, not just as memory, but as a living, breathing part of Mumbai's cultural soul. These establishments, like Taj Ice Cream and Tawakkal Sweets, are cultural landmarks that link the past and present, offering a glimpse into Mumbai's rich heritage.