Fast fashion's approach to managing textile waste: an overview.

In an effort to preserve resources, reduce waste, and extend the lifecycle of textile products, the European Union has adopted a strategy to enhance the recycling capacity of textile waste. This move is a significant step towards supporting a more sustainable and circular textile economy.

The strategy aims to increase the use of recycled fibres in clothes sold within the EU by 2030. However, currently, less than 1% of textile waste in Europe is recycled into new fibres, a figure that could potentially be raised to 70% with investment and technological upgrades.

The outputs of textile recycling can vary, producing new fibres or other products of lower value such as mattresses, carpets, or wiping clothes. The recycling process involves making new products from clothing wastes like scraps, unused material, and discarded clothes.

However, the EU's strategy does not explicitly mention investment and technological upgrades to increase recycling capacity. This could be a challenge, as brands find the informal conditions of the waste value chain a barrier to tracing the waste or supporting the scale-up of recycling capacity.

The world's textile industry produces an estimated 92 million tonnes of textile waste annually, much of which is managed poorly. A large chunk of the remaining untreated clothing waste is shipped from Europe to countries in Asia or Africa, where it often contributes to pollution. For instance, countries like India treat 8.5% of the global textile waste in its 900 recycling units, while others struggle to process a significant portion, leading to environmental degradation.

Promoting repair, resale, and renting of secondhand clothing is also suggested to reduce the industry's environmental impact. Scientific estimates suggest more than half of textile waste is made from synthetic fibres like polyester that never decompose. This makes recycling even more crucial, as it can recover value from waste while curbing the industry's environmental footprint.

Researchers are calling for complementary measures to cut the industry's environmental footprint, such as making longer-lasting clothes with easily recyclable design. The EU strategy also aims to ensure better conditions for workers in the textile industry.

However, the potential impact of the EU's strategy on textile waste management in countries outside Europe remains unclear. Studies like the one by the Fashion for Good do not discuss this aspect. In many countries, including India, the recycling industry is largely informal and operates in mostly informal businesses. This is evident in places like India, where a large number of women sort scraps for a small wage in the recycling value chains.

Other countries, like Ghana, struggle to process a significant portion of the waste coming their way, leading to pollution of water bodies and beaches. This underscores the need for a global approach to textile waste management, with cooperation between countries to ensure sustainable practices.

A recent study published by the German development agency GIZ does not provide specific solutions to overcome the barriers faced by brands in supporting the scale-up of recycling capacity. However, it is clear that the future of the textile industry lies in sustainable practices, and the EU's strategy is a significant step in that direction. Recycling textile waste can not only recover value from waste but also curb the industry's environmental footprint, making it a win-win solution for both the environment and the economy.