Issey Miyake's resurgence under the guidance of Satoshi Kondo: 'There's always an untold narrative'
Issey Miyake's New Direction Under Satoshi Kondo
In the world of fashion, change is a constant, but for Issey Miyake, the transformation has been particularly noteworthy since the arrival of designer Satoshi Kondo. Kondo, who has been the head of Issey Miyake's women's line since 2019, is carrying forward Miyake's legacy with a fresh perspective.
Kondo's collections for the brand are centred around transformation and evolution, mirroring the acts of transformation possible with washi, a traditional Japanese paper. This focus on fabric is a testament to Miyake's philosophy, as Kondo values 'retaining the integrity of a piece of fabric' in his designs.
The S/S 2025 show, titled 'The Beauty of Paper', was presented on a paper-covered runway, symbolising Kondo's dedication to this material. The A/W 2024 collection, titled 'What Has Always Been', explores the primal desire to wrap the body with cloth, further emphasising Kondo's commitment to the brand's roots.
Critics have praised Kondo for creating clothing on his own terms, rather than basking in past glories. They have noted a growing momentum from Issey Miyake under his leadership, with Kondo's designs reflecting a unique vision that is both spontaneous and deliberate, a nod to Issey Miyake's legacy but not a replication.
The LOG hotel in Hiroshima, almost entirely made from washi, serves as a physical embodiment of Kondo's work. Located in the foothills of the Onomichi mountains, near Senkoji Temple, an ancient pilgrimage site, the hotel was renovated by Studio Mumbai, an Indian architecture firm. The use of washi in the hotel replicates the feeling of floating within a paper lantern, a symbolic representation of Kondo's role at Issey Miyake.
Kondo's team plays a significant role in deciding when one collection ends and another begins. Kondo shares Miyake's tenacity and perseverance, continuing until he finds something truly original. Miyake, who was never influenced by trends from the wider industry, always told an original story, and Kondo is following in his footsteps.
The March 2025 issue of a leading fashion magazine featured an article about Kondo's work with Issey Miyake, highlighting the designer's impact on the brand. The article was available in print on international newsstands, on the website app on Apple iOS, and to subscribers of Apple News +.
The S/S 2022 show, held after the death of the brand's namesake designer, featured washi as a tribute. This show marked a significant moment in the brand's history, as Kondo took on the responsibility of leading Issey Miyake into a new era.
In conclusion, Satoshi Kondo's work with Issey Miyake is an ongoing exploration of fabric's potential, started by Miyake himself. Under Kondo's leadership, the brand is continuing to tell original stories, while staying true to its roots. The future of Issey Miyake is undoubtedly exciting, as Kondo continues to push the boundaries of fashion and design.
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