Treasured watercrafts connecting Europe and Asia in Istanbul's renowned ferry service
In the heart of Istanbul, the white ferries of the Bosphorus have been sailing for nearly 200 years, providing a unique and essential part of the city's charm. One such ferry, the Pasabahçe, underwent a two-year restoration and returned to the Bosphorus in 2022.
The Pasabahçe ferry, operated by the official ferry operator in Istanbul, Şehir Hatları, has a nine-man crew and mainly sails the 20-minute route between Kadıköy and Beşiktaş. Navigating this route can be tricky due to factors like people jumping into the water and fishing nets, but Captain Ekrem Özçelik, at the helm of one of Şehir Hatları's 30 vessels, navigates these challenges with ease.
The Pasabahçe ferry has a rich history. Until 1973, it was the only way to cross between Istanbul's Asian and European sides. Over the years, these ferries transformed the simple fishing villages lining the Bosphorus into popular holiday destinations. Ibrahim Bayus, a 62-year-old engineer, recalls the familiarity of the ferries, as he often forgot money but was helped by captains.
Captain Özçelik himself has a story to tell. He recalled a time when he took three students to Kadıköy despite traffic suspension to help them pass their exams. The students who were helped by Captain Özçelik still visit him, a testament to the personal connections formed on these waters.
Being a captain in the heart of Istanbul is a source of great pride for Captain Ekrem Özçelik. Adil Bali, a specialist on the history of Istanbul's ferries, stated that a view of Istanbul should include Maiden's Tower, a ferry, and a seagull. Indeed, the ferries have become an integral part of the city's landscape.
Despite competition from bridges, undersea metro lines, and other modes of transportation, the ferries remain very popular. The main operator, Şehir Hatları, carries at least 40 million passengers a year. Dozens of staff work at the city's 53 ports, many of whom are known by regular passengers. Even the Pasabahçe's bows have been grazed by jet skis in the crowded waters, a testament to the ferry's enduring presence.
Navigating the waters of Istanbul requires a certain amount of experience due to powerful currents and potentially dangerous conditions. But for Captain Ekrem Özçelik and his crew, it's all in a day's work. As the city continues to grow and change, the Pasabahçe ferry stands as a symbol of Istanbul's rich history and enduring charm.
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